Very good discussion. Here is link to Col Kumar's first expedition from an IDR article.
The Indian Army expedition 1981: To the Eastern Karakorams and back
YIP, I think I have the old issue of Outside I got from the local grocery store. will make copies and send by camel express!
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Posting in full...
The Indian Army expedition 1981: To the Eastern Karakorams and back
A first-person account
Source : The Indian Defence Review, © 1995 by Lancer Publishers & Distributors.
Article Author : Colonel Narender Kumar PVSM, KC, AVSM, FRGS (Padam Shri) (Retd)
The great Karakoram Range forms the water parting between the rivers of the Indian subcontinent and Central Asia. It is the highest watershed in the world.
This 400-mile long mountain range of Northwestern Ladakh got its name from the historic Karakoram Pass. Ironically, this pass does not lie on the main
Karakoram Range at all. Perhaps this name is derived from the capital of Chengez Khan's empire - City of Karakoram. The word Karakoram means 'Black Rock'
and there is no doubt that this range has plenty of incredibly sheer and rocky cliffs of shining granite which look more black than grey. In between the rocky
ridges lie the white troughs containing a galaxy of glaciers as can be found in no other part of the globe except the Arctic Circle. Some explorers have rightly
given this area the name Third Pole.
For the training of this yeaes advanced course of High Altitude Warfare School, I selected the Siachen Glacier, the Himalayas' largest and longest glacier. Our
team consisted of fifteen instructors and forty students.
Since Khardung La (18,300 feet), the highest motorable pass of the world (on Ladakh Range), was still closed due to heavy snow, the advance party flew into
the Nubra Valley from Srinagar. I, along with the main party, got to Leh (11,500 feet - same height as Lhasa) via the traditional Kargil road on the 8th of June.
We had already crossed three mountain ranges, the Pir Panjal, the Great Himalayan Range and the Zanskar Range and had come 400 km away from Srinagar.
Our destination lay another 300 km North of Leh and to get there we had to cross three more ranges: the Ladakh Range, Saltoro Range and the great
Karakoram Range.
After a couple of days' stay in Leh we moved to the Nubra Valley after crossing Khardung La. Nubra Valley lies along the Nubra and Shyok rivers and is
approximately four miles wide. On both sides there are mountains with the sheer rocky faces rising up 7000-8000 feet and culminating in snowy peaks of
24,000 feet. We followed the valley which is along the Nubra River and is flanked in the West by the Saltoro Range and in the East by the main crest of the
great Karakoram Range. In the North, the Nubra Valley ends in Siachen Glacier which leads to the Turkistan La and the lndira Col. They form the watershed
between Central Asia and the Indian subcontinent.
We crossed the Shyok River at Tirit and went along the great Silk Route. This was the route followed bytradersto Yarkand which carried with them brocades,
opium and tobacco and brought back corals, jute and silk. They say no guide is required on this route as the trail is marked by skeletons of horses, yaks,
camels and human beings. We passed through the villages of Semur, Tegur and Panamik. Panamik is the last village on the Silk Route till the trader reaches
Eastern Turkistan and is well known for its hot springs. At Sasoma (Umlung) the Silk Route branches off to the right and crosses the great Karakoram Range
and then goes over the plains of Despain before crossing Karakoram Pass (height 18,300 feet) into the Chinese Turkistan. But we carried on Northwards to
Tongstead village.
It is here that we found 17 double-humped Krizig camels, the only ones of their kind in India. They are the descendants of the old caravan camels journeyed
from Yarkand to Leh.
Our next halt was at Warshi. The last village of the Nubra Valley consists of only one family husband, wife and a daughter. The first lady of the village was
very hospitable and served us salt tea, which I relished.
Warshi is an oasis of green grain fields bordered by poplars and rose bushes in the weird wilderness of a barren brown landscape full of stones and sand. It
is a small village created on every bit of the alluvial soil which has been retained by stone walls in terrace formation. A mountain torrent nearby furnishes a
never-failing supply of water. The size of these villages normally depends upon the industry of the inhabitants. Considering that there is only one family in
Warshi they must have really slogged to create this small heaven.
On the fourth day of March we reached the ice cave of the Siachen Glacier where the glacier ceases to exist and gives birth to the Nubra River. Here we found
an abundance of wild rose bushes which have given their name to the glacier - Sia means 'Rose'. These wild bushes often grow luxuriantly amongst boulders
where no soil can be seen or high upon the faces of the perpendicular rock precipices, the colourless surface of which they relieve in the most fascinating
manner.
The first day's journey on the glacier followed the stony moraine troughs which were lined by icy ridges on both sides. This day's halt was immediately after
the U-turn of the glacier. The most striking sight here was the disappearance of the huge stream of Terong Tokpo beneath the Siachen Glacier.
In this giant among glaciers, hundreds of other glaciers and streams from the East and West have joined to submerge their identity. It is over 1000 feet deep,
4 km wide and 75 km long. It has its own system of drainage above, and sewerage below. At times the streams just plunge into wells of ice, hundreds of feet
deep, not to be seen again. There are huge tunnels in this glacier which were once waterways.
On the second day's march we had to cling onto the steep icy banks of deep and gushing streams. One wrong stop would have resulted in certain death.
According to experts it would take only three minutes for anyone to freeze if he fell into the ice cold waters of the glacial streams. One porter in an earlier
expedition had fallen and was frozen to death.
Another three days' march took us to the junction of Saltoro and Siachen Glaciers. This became our Advance Base Camp (16,500 feet). It was from here that
we launched our ski tours to the various parts of the Siachen Glacier basin.
The first trip was made on 24 June to Biiafond La or the Saltoro Pass - the 'Gateway' to Baltistan. The going was good and effortless and we felt free like larks
with our fast-moving skis which took the crevasses and streams in their stride. At 0900 hrs I came across a small stream which was covered by a glass-like
bridge which seemed strong enough to bear my burden or at least I in my light mood thought so. But the moment I got to the centre of this bridge the glassy
crust gave away and I found myself knee-deep in the icy cold water of the stream below. I got a terrible eerie feeling as the cold water trickled slowly into my
boots. A little later an overpowering sensation of numbness got hold of my legs. Vinod, my buddy, came to my rescue and pulled me out of the freezing
stream and I jumped up and down on wooden sticks till the blood circulation was restored.
The slopes were nice and gradual but the climb was never-ending. I was sure that we would reach the pass latest by 1200 hrs. But distances in the mountains
can be most deceptive for it was not before 1630 hrs that we got to the flat top of Saltoro Pass (18,200 feet).
The climb had exhausted us completely but the view from the top of the pass was most exhilarating, especially towards the East where we could see the
Teram Kangri massif. Vinod and I had been on this mountain three years back and for us this was a view full of nostalgic memories.
The mountains on the other side of the pass, though lacking in the grandeur and size of Eastern Karakoram, broke the dull monotony of snow and ice as
Western Karakoram rocky pinnacles pierced into the sky. After we had had our fill of the spectacular vista of snow, ice and rocks and having gulped down a
cup of tea we turned our skis downwards and kept gliding effortlessly at 15-20 km per hour, our finned cross-country skis whistling gaily all the time. To
reduce our speed we just had to open the flaps of our jackets. Without taking a single turn we came down for eight long kilometres. The ecstasy of that
delightful trip down is one I shall never forget.
We had to wait for a couple of days till our supplies reached us and then we started off on our expedition to Indira Col - the lowest point of the greatest
water-shed in the world. We improvised a sledge by fixing a plywood board on the skis. The six of us then went self-contained for six days hauling our
supplies like huskies of Eskimos. We left our Advance Base Camp on 27 June. We must have crossed over a thousand crevasses - some of these were real
booby traps with soft snow bridges camouflaging them. It was indeed an exhausting and nerve-wracking journey full of suspense.
On 28th we camped under a high, black, domeshaped rock, which we named 'Gompa'. We had been seeing this landmark of 'Rock' for three days as we
approached it. But it appeared to us the same now as it had from a distance of 30, 20 or 10 km. The absence of haze at high altitudes makes distant objects
appear exactly as they do close-up.
Next day we left our camp early. We were all as excited like children. As a child I always wanted to know what lay on the other side of the hill and here I was
going to stand on the world's greatest watershed between Central Asia and the Indian subcontinent. Climbing a snowfield and then a steep ridge and
traversing towards right another snowfield full of crevasses, we came to lndira Col (19,000 feet), a link between Central Asia and the Indian subcontinent.
Looking back we saw a wonderful vista of the Siachen Glacier flowing away into the distance 40 miles. The first half was a huge field of white and pure snow.
Later on, the glacier became ribboned with moraines of different colours as if the entire glacier had been ploughed. From a height the scene looked like
dozens of roads running parallel to each other. Towards the North we could see low, and and brown mountains with red slashes. Immediately below Urdok
the glacier fell away to smell the water of the Yarkand River. After having spent almost an hour on the Col we skied down. But before returning to the
Advance Base the ski team also visited Turkistan La (18,800 feet).
Sia Kangri (height 24,350 feet)
On 3 July, I reached a 20,500 feet high Col where Camp Ill of Sia Kangri had been established. It is just opposite the Conway Col at the head of Baltoro
Glacier. But then a storm overtook us and stayed with us till 12 July. Not for a minute did the sky become visible. The storm lashed at our tents, obliterated
our tracks and virtually pinned us down to our sleeping bags. Visibility in the blinding blizzard was not more than a few yards. Whiteouts were complete and
worse than the blackouts where at least the eye could get used to the darkness. Whenever the zip of the tent was opened the snow swept in and swirled the
interior, covering everything with ice crystals. At night I lay in my tent hearing creaking of tent cords and the flapping of nylon flaps.
Would it ever end? Sub Des Raj's party made an attempt to supply us with food during this blizzard. For 12 hours they kept going round and round in circles
but never reached us. They say if the leader has one leg smaller than the other, he would keep turning that way till he completes the round.
If the weather had remained bad for another couple of days we would have abandoned our attempt on Sia Kangri. But luckily for us, the weather improved
and not only did we receive supplies from below but we were also able to push Camp IV to a height of 22,500 feet on the Western slopes of Sia Kangri.
On the fateful day of the 13th the summit party of five members led by Major Chopra - the Deputy leader of the Expedition - left Camp IV. In the meantime I
decided to take the support party up to Camp IV in order to be as near the summit party as possible in case of emergencies. This camp was situated on the
source of the two longest glaciers in the world. From here it seemed that if we threw a snow ball it would reach Baltoro Giacier. The Karakorams have been
called the Third Pole because of its huge glaciers. If the centrepoint of this most glaciated area has to be selected it would have to be the summit of Sia
Kangri as it is the originating point of Baftoro Glacier, Siachen Glacier, Khondus Glacier and to an extent Urdok Glacier.
We looked up the mountain to see our team making tremendous progress. They had started traversing and twice a couple of members slipped and were held
by the others. Anybody who fell would have come straight to the yawning crevasse below. After a time they disappeared behind a crest line.
When we spotted them returning later at 1600 hrs, we were certain that they had got to the summit. But alas, they has been cheated by a false peak and had
to return without reaching the real summit of Sia Kangri.
However, next morning I led another party consisting of Captain Pathania, Sub Des Raj, Hav Vinod and Hav Rana. Taking advantage of the steps made by
the earlier expedition we got to the top of Sia Kangd 24,350 feet at 1445hrs.This was the Northern most peak ever climbed by any Indians in India - the centre
of the Third Pole. From where we stood we could look into Afghanistan, Russia, China, Turkistan, Tibet, India and Pakistan. Gasherbrum I (height 26,490 feet)
the second highest peak of the Karakorams lay like a sleeping whale just opposite us. We left on the top an ice axe inscribed with the names of Mrs lndira
Gandhi, General K. V. Krishna Rao, PVSM and the Summiters. Before returning to the Advance Base Camp we visited Sia La (18,850 feet) at the head of
Khondus Glacier from where we had a lovely view of Chogolisa, 'The Bride Peak'
Saltoro I (height 25,400 feet)
Saltoro in Tibetan in 'GSL-GT or-po' the giver of light - may be connected with the description of the glaciar glittering in the sun.This peak was triangulated at
the same time as K2 and was given the number K-10. Later on its local name was discovered and given to the subsidiary range of the Karakoram which runs
Southwards from Sia Kangri and separates the Eastern Karakorams from the Western Karakorams.
Before going to lndira Col and Sia Kangri, I along with Captain D. K. Duarah had made a trip towards the base of Saftoro Kangri on 23 June. After an hour of
walking up the Siachen Glacier we turned left and got the most magnificent view of the peak. Mountains, like people, have their individuality and character.
However, some are always commonplace no matter how high they tower. But this mountain is so noble in its built - strikingly tall and graceful - and it is so
supremely picturesque and beautiful that it is like those few commanding personalities you meet so rarely in life.
Going up Saltoro Glacier was good and I agreed with an earlier expedition's report that this glacier is the gentlest of all the Siachen's tributaries. After 10 km
the glacier ended in an immense flawless snow expanse encircled by Saltoros, Sherpi Kangri and four more peaks above 22,000 feet. What a feast for climbers'
eyes! But our eyes were set on the graceful sublime set of Saltoro jewels. We traced a rough line of tentative ascent. The route selected went South till the
base of Saltoro and then up its Eastern face. The first obstacle was an ice fall about 3000 feet in height. It appeared dangerous and deadly but then there was
no other alternative available. This route meets the South ridge at about 23,500 feet and then follows the ridge to the summit. Having been satisfied that the
route could 'Go' we started our return journey.
Considering our rapid progress on the way up we thought going down would not take us more than a couple of hours. But this so-called gentle and placid
glacier, having warmed itself up, was ready to show different colours. While going up the entire surface of the glacier was frozen solid and we did not even
imagine what lay under this harmless looking snow cover, till Captain D. K. Duarah walking right in front of me disappeared in a snow hole. His hands and ski
sticks were the only things visible. You can well imagine my consternation. It was difficult to believe my eyes. Mehrwan went to extricate Captain D.K.
Duarah and got trapped himself.
There was danger ahead and we fell on all fours. Luckily the crevasse was not deep. Kalam Singh crawled up and helped Duarah and Mehrwan out, while I
held his leg. It was an exhausting job as wherever they set their foot, they sank thigh deep. The top layer of the snow, having become soft with the heat of
the sun, gave no protection against the yawning crevasses below as it did in the early hours of the morning. This was only the beginning. Here onwards
every ten steps or so we fell into crevasses which luckily did not swallow us up. At no time could I see more than two people above the surface. In a way it
was not climbing but wrestling with snow. After a six-hour gruelling effort we returned to the Advance Base Camp, totally exhausted. But we were lucky to
have been spared the frozen hell.
As the weeks passed more of these crevasses opened out. At a later stage one of the members, Mangala Rai, fell into a 30-feet deep crevasse and was
precariously balanced on a snow 'Chalk Stone' while the gushing cold water stream flowed only two feet below him. On another occasion Ved Prakash and
Rajinder Singh, when carrying loads from the Advance Base Camp to Camp 1, had gone about 2 km when Rajinder Singh looked back and found that his
companion had suddenly disappeared. He stood paralysed for a few seconds and then returned to the gaping hole which had engulfed his partner. He kept
yelling into the crevasse 'Are you there, are you there'. After some time a feeble voice was heard from the great depths below. He was relieved to get a
response and rushed back to the Advance Base Camp for help. Ved Prakash was inside a 75-feet deep crevasse a frozen hell, for two hours before he was
evacuated with a broken ankle. This was no gentle glacier but the Devil's glacier full of death traps to entice the unwary into its pitiless jaws.
It is surprising that the longest western affluent of Siachen Glacier is named after the peak at the head of this river of ice.
On 30 June, Camp I was established at a place little short of the point reached by us earlier. It was named 'Suraj'. The next day Camp II was established at
19,000 feet at the foot of the East face. It was called 'Hema'. Towards the South-West was a 20,000 feet high pass between the Saltoro and Sherpi Kangri
Glaciers. Lord John Hunt had used this gap to come from Khapaiu in 1935. Lord Hunt's expedition had to turn back when they were only 800 feet from the
summit of Saltoro due to exhaustion and dangers of avalanches.
Camp III was placed after cutting through a comice at 21,000 feet just above the first ice wall. Beyond Camp III, the mountains were guarded as if by a demon
of invincibility. A second ice wall about 2000 feet high not only guarded it like a snake guards a treasure but kept spitting its venom in the form of deathly
avalanches. The overhanging ice wall would break and bring down thousands of tonnes of ice. Twice we had made a route through it at a great risk to life.
Twice it was swept away. One of the ice avalanches came so close to Camp III that we thought it would bury us in but when the noise - that of hundred trains
running parallel to each other - hissed away we found the debris had stopped only a 100 feet away from us. A close shave.
Before the summit camp was put on the South ridge at 23,400 feet another camp was placed at approximately 22,500 feet just above the second and most
deadly ice wall. On 15 July Captain D. K. Duarah, Kalam Singh, Sonam, Subhash and Rattan made an attempt which fell short by 200 to 300 feet. Then the
weather became bad and we were pinned down by blizzards. On 23 July a party of 3 members reoccupied Camp IV, and another four members left Camp Ill
early in the morning to join them. As they left, heavy wet snow started failing. I picked up the wireless and called everyone down. There were protests but I
was firm. And, thank God I was - that night a huge avalanche came down the sound of which could be heard for miles - it seemed never-ending. Our entire
camp Ill where 7 people would have slept that night was under 200 feet of snow.
We persisted, re-made the route, and on 2 August, 4 people left Camp V at 0600 hours and climbed to the summit at 25,400 feet at about 1445 hours. They left
two flags there - one over the Eastern side and one on the Western side to the summit. The flag was seen the next day from Camp 11. They had climbed the
highest peak of Eastern Karakoram. The summit party consisted of Kalam Singh (Thundup), Gaj Bahadur and Swam Singh.
To summarize, our expedition had climbed 25,400 feet Saftoro Kangd -the highest in Eastern Karakorams, Sia Kangd at 24,350 feet the Northernmost peak ever
climbed by an Indian and traversed the Himalayas' longest glacier, Siachen, on skis. We also made ski tours to Turkistan La, Sia La and Biiafond La.